What is Rubbing Fastness and Why It Matters
Ever bought a dark pair of jeans only to find the blue rubbing off on your white sneakers or sofa?
That annoying colour transfer is exactly what rubbing fastness, also called crocking resistance is all about. It is a measure of how well a fabric’s colour holds up when it comes into contact with other surfaces through rubbing, whether dry or wet.
The better the rubbing fastness, the less likely it is for dyes to bleed onto skin, other clothes, or furniture.
Now, why does this matter?
First, it’s a key marker of textile quality — no one wants clothes that start losing colour after a few wears.
Second, it affects brand perception; consistent issues with colour transfer can make buyers lose trust in the brand.
And third, it’s crucial for consumer satisfaction; as nobody enjoys the surprise of dye-stained hands or ruined accessories.
So, whether you’re a manufacturer, designer, or buyer, rubbing fastness isn’t just a technical term, it is a quality promise.
Dry Vs. Wet Rubbing Fastness: Key Differences
When testing how well fabric holds its colour during rubbing, both dry and wet conditions are evaluated, and the results can differ quite a bit.
| Aspects | Dry Rubbing Fastness | Wet Rubbing Fastness |
| Typical Test Result | Generally yields higher ratings (4–5 on the grey scale). | Tends to score lower (often 2–3), especially with dark shades. |
| Common Challenges | Friction may cause minor powdering of loose dye. | Water acts as a solvent, lifting more dye particles during rub. |
Talking about wet rubbing fastness, it tends to score lower because water softens the dye, making it easier for particles to detach and transfer.
This presents two key issues: reduced durability, as repeated moisture exposure can accelerate fading or staining; and limited usability, particularly for garments like sportswear or furniture covers that frequently encounter sweat, humidity, or cleaning processes.
Simply put, if wet rubbing fastness isn’t up to the mark, the product may look old or stained far too soon.
Understanding Rubbing Fastness Test Standards
Rubbing fastness is evaluated using globally recognised standards, each with its own testing protocol.
- ISO 105-X12:
Used globally to assess dry and wet rubbing fastness. A standard white test cloth is rubbed against the fabric under controlled conditions, and colour transfer is rated using a grey scale.
- AATCC 8:
Popular in the U.S., this method uses a crockmeter to simulate hand rubbing. It allows for flexibility with crocking cloth types depending on the fabric category.
- JIS L0849:
The Japanese standard, similar to ISO but fine-tuned for the precision requirements of local textile industries. Often preferred for synthetic fabrics and delicate weaves.
- ISO 105-X16:
A more rigorous version of X12 that includes controlled wet pick-up, making it ideal for evaluating fabrics exposed to high-moisture conditions (e.g., swimwear, sportswear).
From a chemical manufacturer’s perspective, aligning with these test standards means tailoring formulations according to specific performance benchmarks.
For cottons tested under ISO 105-X12:
High-performance reactive dyes and efficient fixation agents are used to lock in colour and reduce dry rub-off.
For poly-cotton blends under AATCC 8:
A mix of disperse dyes, cationic fixatives, and binders ensures stability under both dry and wet conditions.
Standard-specific adjustments:
- pH control and temperature regulation during dyeing
- Use of lubricants or softeners to reduce surface friction
- Tailored auxiliaries to enhance dye penetration and bonding
Use Case Snapshot
- Apparel: Requires balanced dry and wet rubbing fastness for comfort and longevity
- Upholstery & Home Textiles: Prioritizes high wet fastness to withstand cleaning and daily contact
- Technical Fabrics: Tested under stricter moisture conditions (ISO 105-X16) for outdoor or performance wear.
How Rubbing Fastness Tests Are Conducted
Rubbing fastness tests follow a standardised setup to ensure consistent results.
- First, the fabric sample is conditioned and mounted securely on the test bed.
- A white test cloth is then attached to the rubbing finger of a crockmeter, which is pressed against the fabric under a fixed pressure; usually around 9N (Newton).
- Then, the fabric is rubbed over it for a defined stroke count (commonly 10 or 20 cycles), depending on the standard.
**Both dry and wet test cloths are used in separate runs to assess different conditions.
As for the instrument used, there are various types of Crockmeters in use.
The manual ones require hand operation, while motorised models offer automated, uniform strokes.
Rotary crockmeters perform circular rubbing, ideal for patterned fabrics, and curved-surface crockmeters simulate contact on contoured textiles like collars or seams.
**All tests are conducted under controlled lab conditions; typically, 20±2°C and 65±4% relative humidity — to ensure repeatability and accuracy.
Instruments and Tools Used in Testing
At the heart of rubbing fastness testing is the crockmeter, a precision device designed to simulate controlled rubbing.
It typically consists of a friction head (usually 16 mm in diameter) that moves back and forth over the test fabric, a fixed weight mechanism to apply pressure and mounting clips to secure both the fabric and the crocking cloth in place.
Proper alignment, fabric tension and consistent contact between surfaces are essential to avoid skewed results.
Calibration and regular maintenance of the device ensure testing accuracy and compliance with global standards.
We have attached a video demonstrating how a Crockmeter is set up, and how a rubbing fastness test is done. Do check out:
In addition to the standard crockmeter, modern labs are adopting more sophisticated testers.
Motorised and automated crockmeters reduce human error by delivering uniform speed and stroke counts.
Rotary crockmeters are designed for circular or multi-directional rubbing, making them ideal for printed or textured fabrics.
Emerging technologies like SmartCrock devices bring digital precision into the mix with programmable settings, digital stroke counters and data logging for better traceability.
How Rubbing Fastness is Rated and Interpreted
Once a rubbing fastness test is completed, the extent of colour transfer is evaluated using a grey scale, a visual comparison tool that rates staining from 1 to 5.
This method involves matching the rubbed white test cloth against grey scale standards under controlled lighting conditions.
The closer the match to the original white (i.e., less staining), the higher the score.
The grey scale rating reflects how much dye has transferred during rubbing and plays a key role in determining fabric quality, durability, and suitability for various end-uses.
Here’s what each score typically means:
- Grade 5 – Excellent:
No visible staining; ideal for high-performance or luxury textiles.
- Grade 4 – Very Good:
Minimal staining; suitable for most apparel and home textiles.
- Grade 3 – Good:
Noticeable but acceptable transfer; commonly accepted for dark shades in casual wear or workwear.
- Grade 2 – Poor:
Moderate to heavy staining; often fails in quality control checks for garments or upholstery.
- Grade 1 – Very Poor:
Severe staining; fabric is unfit for commercial use or customer handling.
*In most industry applications, a score of 3 or above is considered acceptable.
Key Factors that Influence Rubbing Fastness
Rubbing fastness isn’t determined by dye alone. The physical characteristics of the fabric play a major role in how much colour transfers under friction.
Here’s a breakdown of key factors and how they influence test outcomes:
| Physical Factor | Influence on Rubbing Fastness |
| Fabric Surface Texture | Rough or raised surfaces (like brushed cotton or corduroy) increase friction, causing more dye transfer. |
| Fibre Type | Natural fibres (e.g., cotton) tend to hold less dye securely than synthetics (like polyester), affecting fastness. |
| Yarn Twist | Loosely twisted yarns expose more fibre surface, which can release more dye during rubbing. |
Wait, there is more!
Chemical & Process-Based Factors That Directly Affect Performance:
Dye Chemistry: Reactive dyes form strong covalent bonds with cellulose, offering better rubbing fastness than direct dyes, which bond more loosely.
Pigment Depth: Deeper or darker shades typically involve higher pigment loads, which increases the chance of surface dye migration.
Binder Selection and Curing: For pigment printing, the quality of the binder and proper curing (typically heat-setting) ensure the pigment particles are fixed firmly to the fibre.
Washing Off Process: Incomplete removal of unfixed dye after dyeing can leave residues on the surface, which are easily rubbed off.
Additives and Fixatives: Use of dye fixers and post-treatment agents can significantly improve rubbing fastness, especially for cotton and blends.
Improving Rubbing Fastness in Production
Enhancing rubbing fastness isn’t just about choosing the right dye; it is about fine-tuning every stage of production.
Below are fabric-wise best practices across key process points and post-treatment solutions to achieve better performance.
✅ Better Dye Fixation Methods
- Cotton & Cellulose: Use reactive dyes with high fixation efficiency and apply proper alkali dosing for complete bonding.
- Polyester: Opt for disperse dyes with proper carrier or HT dyeing protocols.
- Blends: Use dual-process dyeing with cationic/reactive or disperse/reactive systems to ensure even fixation across fibres.
✅ Optimised Rinse-Off Protocols
- Always include a hot wash and neutral soaping step post-dyeing to remove unfixed dyes.
- Use fabric-appropriate washing agents for effective residue removal:
a). Cotton: Soaping with chelating and dispersing agents
b). Synthetics: High-temperature rinse cycles
✅ Maintaining Proper pH Balance
- Maintain a neutral to slightly acidic pH (5.5–6.5) in the final bath to prevent dye bleeding.
- Use buffering agents for pH control during fixation and washing, especially for sensitive fabrics like viscose and rayon.
In the context of Post-Treatment Solutions, we suggest a brief standardised and practised essential tips for your perusal:
- Silicone Softeners
- Improve surface smoothness and reduce friction, lowering dye release.
- Ideal for denim, knitwear, and heavy cottons without affecting the hand feel.
- Binders
- Essential in pigment printing to lock colour on the surface.
- Use high-solid binders and crosslinkers for uniform adhesion on polyester blends.
- Enzyme Finishing
- Removes surface fuzz and pilling, which carry loose dye particles.
- Best suited for cotton, linen, and cellulosic fabrics to enhance both softness and fastness.
Common Challenges and Troubleshooting Tips
The key to impactful problem solving is bringing practical and feasible way-outs that identify our potential slip points and deliver in specific niches.
- One of the most frequent problems in rubbing fastness testing is low wet fastness, often caused by incomplete dye fixation or improper washing off, which leaves loose dye particles vulnerable to transfer when moisture is present.
- Excessive crocking in dark shades, especially blacks, navies, and maroons, stems from higher pigment loads and surface dye accumulation, making them more prone to rub-off.
- Another recurring issue is lab inconsistencies, where varying pressure, humidity, or operator handling can lead to fluctuating test results and unreliable benchmarks.
Follow the below composite solution guide to address real-time issues:
- Standardise lab conditions (temperature, humidity, stroke count, and crockmeter calibration) to improve repeatability across batches.
- Implement a double-soaping process post-dyeing for deep shades to eliminate loosely bound surface dye.
- Adjust fabric preparation, such as reducing surface hairiness through enzyme treatments, to reduce dye retention on the fuzz.
- Control liquor ratio and pH during dyeing, ensuring consistent dye uptake and fixation.
- Finally, train QA personnel on standardized testing protocols and invest in automated crockmeters to remove operator-dependent variability.
Comparison Table of Major Rubbing Fastness Standards
When catering to global textile markets, selecting the right rubbing fastness standard is critical for ensuring compliance and customer satisfaction across regions.
Each major standard ISO, AATCC, JIS, and GB/T has specific procedures and evaluation criteria tailored to local expectations and fabric types.
Here is a comparative study data presented in a tabular form to help manufacturers align their processes accordingly:
| Standard | Region of Use | Test Method | Stroke Count | Applied Pressure | Evaluation Scale | Unique Features |
| ISO 105-X12 | Global (Europe & Asia). | Linear rubbing with crockmeter. | 10 cycles. | ~9N | Grey Scale (1–5). | Widely adopted; tests both dry and wet crocking. |
| AATCC 8 | USA, North America. | Crockmeter method. | 10 cycles. | 9N | Grey Scale (1–5). | Allows fabric-specific crocking clothes. |
| JIS L0849 | Japan | Similar to ISO method. | 10 cycles. | ~9N | Grey Scale (1–5). | Precision-focused, often used for synthetic fabrics. |
| GB/T 3920 | China | National standard, ISO-aligned. | 10 cycles. | ~9N | Grey Scale (1–5). | Aligns with ISO but used in domestic Chinese markets. |
Impact on Product Categories and Industry Use
In textiles, rubbing fastness directly impacts how a product performs, looks, and lasts.
Colour bleeding, blotching, or transfer can significantly reduce a fabric’s appeal and performance; especially in outerwear and high-contact applications.
Here’s how this plays out across key categories:
Denim
Known for deep indigo shades, denim is prone to crocking, especially when new. Poor rubbing fastness results in dye transfer onto furniture, footwear, or other garments, diminishing both its aesthetic appeal and consumer confidence.
Children’s Wear
Safety and hygiene are paramount here. Colour bleeding from damp fabrics can lead to skin irritation or staining of other clothes, making low rubbing fastness unacceptable in this category.
Upholstery
Constant contact with skin and cleaning agents makes this segment vulnerable. Fading or staining not only affects the look of interiors but also reduces the fabric’s functional lifespan.
Workwear
These garments face frequent friction and repeated laundering. Low rubbing fastness can lead to fading logos, colour transfer, or patchy appearance, compromising brand identity and uniform consistency.
Sportswear
High moisture and sweat exposure accelerate dye migration. Colour transfer can not only spoil aesthetics but may also interfere with fabric breathability or stretch, affecting performance and comfort.
Lifecycle Impact & Customer Claims
Poor rubbing fastness shortens a product’s functional life by accelerating wear, fading, and staining, leading to premature discards.
This also opens the door to customer dissatisfaction, higher return rates, and potential quality claims, especially in premium or export markets.
For brands and manufacturers, ensuring high rubbing fastness is more than a technical target — it’s essential to protect product value, reputation, and long-term customer trust.
Sustainability and Environmental Concerns
As textile industries shift toward greener practices, rubbing fastness enhancement must also evolve with sustainability in mind.
Traditional methods while effective, often involve water-intensive dyeing, chemical-heavy binders and waste-generating post-treatments, all of which contribute to environmental degradation.
To counter this, eco-conscious manufacturers are turning to sustainable alternatives that minimise toxic discharge without compromising fabric performance.
✅ Eco-friendly binders:
Free from formaldehyde, APEOs, and heavy metals, these biodegradable polymers bond pigments effectively while reducing chemical toxicity in effluents.
✅ Reduced water dyeing techniques:
Methods such as low-liquor ratio dyeing, supercritical CO₂ dyeing, and foam dyeing minimize water use and help eliminate large volumes of wastewater—especially important in water-scarce regions.
✅ Bio-based or low-impact post-treatment chemicals:
Softening agents and dye fixatives can now be derived from natural or non-toxic ingredients that biodegrade safely, reducing the risk of harmful substances entering sewage systems.
Post-treatment chemicals like fixatives and softeners can also be reformulated using bio-based or low-impact ingredients, reducing the load of harmful compounds entering sewage systems.
Best Practices for Sustainable Rubbing Fastness Production:
- Use certified green auxiliaries and binders (e.g., GOTS or ZDHC-compliant).
- Implement closed-loop water systems to recycle and reuse rinse water.
- Monitor pH, COD, and BOD levels in discharge to ensure compliance with environmental norms.
- Opt for low-temperature dye fixation to save energy.
- Train staff in sustainable chemical dosing and process optimisation.
Checklist for Textile QA and Compliance Teams
Maintaining rubbing fastness consistency across batches requires a systematic approach, with essential pre-test and post-test checklists, as given below:
Pre-Test Checklist
Ensure these steps are completed before conducting rubbing fastness tests:
✔️ Verify the crockmeter is calibrated and functioning properly
✔️ Condition fabric samples at 20±2°C and 65±4% RH for at least 4 hours
✔️ Mount fabric securely and flatly on the test bed, free from wrinkles or tension
✔️ Use standard, uncontaminated rubbing (crocking) cloths — dry and wet as per method
✔️ Confirm the correct test method (ISO 105-X12, AATCC 8, etc.) and parameters are selected
✔️ Check stroke count and pressure settings match the required standard
✔️ Record batch number, fabric type, and dye class in test documentation
Post-Test Checklist
Complete these actions immediately after testing:
✔️ Compare crocking cloth with a grey scale under controlled lighting
✔️ Log the fastness rating (dry and wet) along with the evaluator initials
✔️ Photograph stained crocking cloths for digital records (if needed)
✔️ Cross-check results against internal benchmarks or buyer specs
✔️ Tag and store test fabric and cloths for traceability (if re-evaluation is needed)
✔️ Report out-of-spec results for corrective action or retesting
To ensure rubbing fastness testing contributes meaningfully to your broader QA goals:
🔄 Make fastness testing a part of every batch release protocol—especially for high-friction garments like denim, sportswear, or upholstery.
📊 Digitize test records and link them with fabric performance data to monitor trends and flag recurring issues.
🤝 Coordinate between lab and production teams to adjust dyeing or finishing if results fall short of standards.
🎯 Include fastness benchmarks in SOPs and vendor audits to ensure supply chain-wide consistency.
🧠 Train QA staff regularly on testing standards, handling procedures, and result interpretation for accuracy and compliance.
FAQs
- Why is wet rubbing fastness usually lower than dry?
- Water softens the dye layer and increases dye mobility, making it easier for colour particles to transfer during rubbing.
- How can I improve the rubbing fastness of pigment prints?
- Use high-quality binders, ensure proper curing, and apply softeners or fixatives to lock pigment on the fabric surface.
- What are the common standards used in India for rubbing fastness?
- ISO 105-X12 and IS 766:1988 are the most commonly followed rubbing fastness standards in India.
- Is there any way to visually assess rubbing fastness without a machine?
- While subjective rub tests can give rough insights, accurate assessment requires a crockmeter and grey scale comparison.
- Can rubbing fastness affect export compliance or buyer acceptance?
A. Yes, poor rubbing fastness can lead to buyer rejections, failed audits, and non-compliance with export quality requirements.
Reference Links:
- https://contractlaboratory.com/color-and-color-fastness-testing-methods-equipment-and-challenges/#
- https://www.colourinn.in/the-role-of-wet-rubbing-fastness-improvers-in-textile/#
- https://www.gester-instruments.com/blog/iso-105-x12-standard-guidelines-for-colour-fastness-to-rubbing_b93#
- https://contracttextiles.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/act_wet_dry_crocking_080714.pdf
- https://blog.qima.com/textile/colorfastness-test-methods-for-textiles-guide